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 GOURMET GREATNESS
Porcini’s is a cozy, European style eatery with good Italian food and outstanding pastas and risottos. It’s a great neighborhood find, but the kitchen isn’t always at its best.
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Porcini’s in Watertown is a cozy, darkly decorated trattoria with a toasty fireplace and an open kitchen. Colorful knickknacks and strands of white lights dot the walls, and little alcoves give several tables true intimacy. |
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The regional Italian menu shows some Mediterranean influence, and the awesome pasta dishes make Phantom weak in the knees. |
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Phantom started with a wonderfully rounded Walnut & Gorgonzola Salad of Mesclun greens, endives, toasted nuts, crumbly blue cheese, slightly salty Pancetta bacon, garlic croutons, and subtle raspberry-walnut vinaigrette. Tasty Bruschetta built on super thick, grilled focaccia with shaved garlic, fragrant fresh basil, and dreamy creamy goat cheese, but lifeless plum tomatoes flattened the beautiful creation. |
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Moving on, the amazingly dense, superbly firm Wild Mushroom Risotto lifted its rich garlic cream-prosciutto rapture with juicy roasted red peppers. The Veal Osso Buco made up for nearly tender braised shank meat with a sensational red wine-tomato sauce, lavished with carrots, celery, and onions. A side of Garlic Mashed Potatoes proved irresistibly smooth, but the Sautéed Spinach suffered from too much oil and salt. |
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For dessert, the Tiramisu stiffened from refrigeration and wove an odd sour sweetness throughout its coffee flavored body, but fresh blueberries and strawberries perked the whipped cream topping. |
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All three courses promise overflowing portions, and entrees come with potatoes, rice, or pasta. |
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Service was also on target, since Phantom’s adept waiter offered extra plates for sharing, freshly grated Parmesan when appropriate, and a welcoming attitude the whole night. |
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The whole room was clean as could be, including the sleek entrance bar. |
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Appetizers approach their limit at $9, pastas are $16, and entrees range from $18 to $23. |
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Porcini’s is conveniently close to the Arsenal Mall on School Street in Watertown. |
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Review Date:
2/21/2004 |
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