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 GOURMET GREATNESS
Phantom wouldn’t go exclusively for the food, but Castle Hill Inn is drop-dead gorgeous with its waterside seclusion and picture perfect sunsets.
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Castle Hill Inn is a lovely Victorian mansion swimming in ocean views. All 4 dining rooms have a stately, conservative aura from rich polished woods, thick fabrics, and an entourage of servers. |
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The menu embraces local, organic ingredients, but every dish is loaded with components in dizzying descriptions. |
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To begin, a poor cut of tuna carpaccio came riddled with sinew, and aggressive accents of ginger sesame dressing, peanuts, seaweed salad, and wasabi insulted the delicate flesh. However, the plump foie gras showed an even sear, with savory ham and sweet currant jelly to cut through the richness. |
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For entrees, the tender, butter poached luxury of the lobster tails got lost in a paella setup of overcooked saffron rice and fishy shrimp. The moist, mild halibut filet, roasted sweet squash, and fennel all tied together in a glorious caviar beurre blanc. |
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Dessert brought on a dreamy Belgian chocolate fondue with an interesting assortment for dipping; strawberries, bananas, and walnuts worked well, but the almond cake, sugar cookies, and peanut brittle either crumbled or resisted the fork altogether. |
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Portions are standard, but the plates are busy and rather overwhelming. |
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The seasonal staff worked hard to pamper, with minor bloopers like dropping the menu on Phantom’s neck. |
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Cleanliness was fine, but nothing impressed like the sunset waters. |
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Prices were all over the place, with appetizers at $9 to $20 and entrees spanning $24 to $45. |
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Location nailed a PERFECT 10! Just off Newport’s Ocean Drive, it’s surrounded by waves crashing the peninsula. |
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Review Date:
7/23/2005 |
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